6 Days in Japan — A First Timer’s Guide
A Complete Itinerary & Photo Guide for Lazy Travelers
Several years ago, I read Anthony Bourdain’s chapter in his book “Kitchen Confidential” about his time in Tokyo. He called it the greatest food city in the world, and I knew I wanted to one day make the trip.
Recently, I did that trip as a solo trek to Tokyo and Kyoto and I wanted to share my research and experience on what to do, where to stay, and how to navigate Japan as a first timer. This can be used as a general guide, or as a strict itinerary, up to you and how you like to travel. Regardless, it should save you several hours of research time.
I’m writing this from the perspective of a 30 year old man traveling solo with about a week to travel. I was most interested in eating, seeing sights and experiencing Japanese culture. If you’re looking for a different experience, this might not be the guide for you.
Given that the US Dollar was recently at a 35 year high against the Japanese Yen, now is a great time to travel to Japan on a budget. Most things felt about 1/3 of the price of your typical tier 1 city in the US, even in the most popular tourist destinations.
The first part goes through general tips and information. The second part covers my itinerary, perspective and pictures. All of these recommendations are based on my own experience and none of the links are affiliate links.
Part 1: General Tips and Information
Flying In
Fly to Haneda. Narita is much further from the city and you’ll save yourself some trouble. Both are Tokyo airports.
Download the Timeshifter app about a week before you go. This is my top piece of preparation advice. It will give you an entire plan of when to sleep, when to take in / avoid light, when to drink coffee, etc. in order for you to beat jet lag. Given it’s a huge time difference, this app is a life saver. It actually works perfectly and I experienced basically no jet lag. Just follow the plan laid out for you.
Booking Places
I used Airbnb to book my places. It was considerably cheaper than the hotels on Google. I stayed in Shinjuku in Tokyo, which I would recommend — there is a lot happening there and it feels very Manhattan-esque.
Here is where I stayed in Tokyo for three nights. It’s a no frills place — it fits one person comfortably and can fit two smaller people as well. There aren’t really any amenities, just the basics. Although it did have a heated toilet seat and bidet — like most places in Japan. It’s in a good location though and has everything you need, including a responsive host. The rate was less than $100 per night.
This is where I stayed in Kyoto. I thought the location was also perfect. It was walkable to the main social area for food and drinks, but also quiet, clean, nicely designed, and less than $100 per night.
General Tips and Learnings:
Cash and ATMs
Carry cash on you. It’s more used in Japan than it is in the States. Many small shops only take cash. It’s really easy to get cash, fortunately. Stop at any convenience store (7/11, Lawson’s, Family Mart) to take cash out. You can withdraw cash when you arrive in Tokyo at the airport as well. Be sure to let your bank know you are traveling to Japan so you don’t get blocked.
Cellular Plans
Get the Travel Pass for your phone. It’s $10 / day and it enables full calling, texting and data. I had no issues and it was essential to have reception in order to navigate the city using Google Maps. Holafly also offers an e-sim but my carrier offered Travel Pass. To enable Travel Pass, you need to text your carrier before you leave. It took a few seconds to enable (make sure you have roaming turned on), then you just start using it when you are in Japan.
Navigation
Getting around the city takes some getting used to. I had heard it was easy to navigate public transit, but I found it to be difficult the first time. It got easier with time and by the end I felt very comfortable using Google Maps to navigate subways, trains and buses.
Google Maps does a good job of showing exactly where to go, which platform to go on, which stop to get on and off. It’s an essential app for navigating the city. I ended up using the subway and bus a lot. I used the Suica app to pay for these, which you can download directly in your Apple Wallet and buy credit with on your phone. Each subway ride costs about 250 yen ($1.75). Your phone is your ticket for the subway and bus. Make sure you use a Mastercard to buy Suica dollars on Apple Wallet — Visa’s don’t work for some reason. I ended up successfully avoiding Taxis, which are known to be more expensive, and I collectively spent less than $25 total on non-bullet train travel.
Culture
The Japanese culture of respect is real. There are signs that reinforce it everywhere. A key rule is not talking on your phone on buses or subways. It’s very quiet in these places and any loud chatter is unwelcome. Also, there is designated seating for elderly, pregnant women, etc. so watch where you sit and make sure to offer your seat up to those people if relevant.
Google Translate
Google Translate was critical for at least two conversations. It bridged the gap for a few interactions where they did not speak any English. I also used the lens feature, which lets you hold your camera up to words to translate those to English. Download the Japanese language to your app to make it usable offline.
Public Trash Cans
There are basically no trash cans on the streets. It’s very odd. Try to throw your trash out at the place you buy something otherwise you might be carrying it around until you get home.
Other quick tips:
- Everything is on the left side- driving, walking, etc.
- Tips aren’t necessary or expected.
- You should bow when saying thank you. In almost all cases, a slight dip of the head is enough.
- Bring comfortable athletic shoes. I ended up wearing them often and clocked in multiple 25,000+ step days. You’ll need to complement public transit with a fair bit of walking. The silver lining is it helps you burn off calories from all the food you’ll be eating — more on that soon.
- You can buy the bullet train (Shinkansen) tickets at Tokyo Station to get to Kyoto. I did not buy the tickets in advance like some sites suggested. Just give yourself about 30 minutes to get the tickets and find the platform. Tokyo Station is a maze and can be chaotic. It costs about $180 round trip to go from Tokyo to Kyoto and takes about 2:15 hrs each way. Sit on the right side of the train if you can so you can see an incredible view of Mt. Fuji as you pass it. You’ll get a close-up opportunity to see the mountain, pending decent weather.
Part 2: Itinerary and Commentary
The following itinerary will take you step by step through my trip. I rate everything on a scale of whether you should do it or skip it. My trip was in mid-May, so it’s possible some of my recommendations wouldn’t hold in different seasons.
Day 1
Landed at 2 pm, arrived at Airbnb at 4:30 pm.
Bar Albatross for a Gin & Tonic — I made my way to the legendary Golden Gai district, about a five minute walk from my Airbnb. I had a Gin and Tonic at Bar Albatross. It was a dim closet-sized bar, but felt relatively upscale. They made their own Gin, which was dark like rum and had an orange flavor. It was a great Gin and Tonic and the bartender, Liku, offered some good conversation. Salty snacks paired with the drink. Liku suggested Ramen Nari for dinner. Rating: good spot, but you could bar hop in this area.
Ramen Nari for a Ramen Dinner — Walk a block to Ramen Nari in the Golden Gai district. It is not crowded on a Tuesday but I could see how there could be a long wait during peak times. This is the most sought after Ramen place in the Golden Gai. The waiting line wraps into the alley, and when you are called, you ascend a set of steep red-lit wooden stairs from the street into the second story ramen bar. At the top of the stairs, there is a 1970s style ticket machine. Ramen Nari, along with most Ramen shops, uses ticket machines instead of servers. You order and pay at the machine then sit down and get served your food. The machine only takes cash. I ordered the Special Ramen and sat in the corner of the 8 seat bar. Like most restaurants in Tokyo, it’s less than 10 seats and you sit at a counter facing the people cooking for you. A professional who just finished work is sitting on one side of me, and a pair of young friends on the other. The vibe feels like a time machine of Tokyo from 50 years ago. The ramen comes out topped with fried anchovies to garnish. It’s creamy with a rich umami flavor. It’s already by far the best ramen I’ve ever had and I can see why it’s a local legend. Rating: must try Ramen.
Bar Darling for a night cap — I wander through the alleys of Golden Gai and notice a lively conversation in English at Bar Darling. I take a seat in the corner and chat up the bartender, a Japanese local who lived in NYC for 20 years, as well as a couple from Melbourne and a couple from Spain. I have a Japanese whiskey on the rocks and later a draft beer. The bar has an orange retro counter, with wood paneled walls lined with pictures, including one with Nicholas Cage and the owner. Dozens of bottles line the back bar. Two hours of conversation pass amongst drinks, cigarettes, and laughs. It’s a fluid conversation between the bartender, myself and the other patrons. We get “pissed” as the Aussies keep calling it. Rating: good spot but you should bar hop around.
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An Aside on Golden Gai
Golden Gai is its own life force. It has a magnetic pull. Walking into the district, you realize you’ve never seen something like it before, and it’s something you’ve been wanting to experience your entire life. It’s an amusement park for speakeasy enthusiasts. 300+ closet sized bars line narrow back-alleys. Each bar offers a different vibe, some members-only, some tourist-only, some upscale and minimalist, some homey and warm. It’s a wonder how any of these places make enough money to survive. None hold more than 8 customers at once, most only comfortably sit 4. People tend to sit and stay for hours on end. They’re about half the size of a standard bed room, are all dimly lit, and all brandish a bright neon sign out front, which adds to the collective alley art of exotic bar names and logos. Walking through the Golden Gai, you pass dozens of pockets of conversations, where laughs, cigarette smoke, glass clinks, and homemade food smells spill into the streets. You could be there for months and not experience every place there, even though you can get from end to end in less than two minutes walking. It gives off a distinctly speakeasy vibe, but not in the American manner of intentional quirks. It is low key, it is subtle and it is authentic, without trying to be any of those things. The Golden Gai is a can’t miss stop on your Tokyo trip, and in fact, you’ll probably want to end most nights there, especially considering it’s open late and some places never close. Most drinks are in the 600 yen range (~$4). Most places also charge a cover charge of about 500 yen (a little less than $4).
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Omoide Yakocho for late night yakitori — Finish off the night at Omoide Yakocho, about a 10 minute walk from Golden Gai. It’s like Golden Gai, except with grilled meats. Yakitori is popular here, which is grilled meat over a small charcoal flame. Imagine everything I just said about Golden Gai but instead with restaurants, live fires and homemade chicken skewers. You can get a full meal and a drink here for less than $10. Rating: must try, especially late evening.
Day 2 — First full day of touring.
Shinjuku Garden — I walk to Shinjuku Garden, a large park within Shinjuku. It is Shinjuku’s version of Central Park. The garden features ponds, neatly trimmed grass and hedges, dense maple tree forests, and flower displays. It’s a nice stroll and a good way to start the day. It costs $3 to enter and opens at 9 am. The main garden and the greenhouse were the most interesting parts. Rating: Nice-to-see but not a must see.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Observation Tower — About a 25 minute walk away, this Shinjuku building is one of the tallest points in the area and offers a free 360 degree view of the surrounding area. Best part is, it’s completely free, although that does likely mean you’ll be sharing a crowded elevator ride to the top. You should find at least one observation deck in Tokyo, and this is a great one to do. If you’re lucky, you’ll see Mt. Fuji in the distance when the weather is clear. Rating: Must see.
Meiji Jinju Shrine — Another 25 minute walk away is the Meiji Jinju Shrine, which is in a dense forest park. This was the first shrine on my trip and it’s an important one culturally. As you’ll come to see at most shrines, you can buy lucky amulets, submit wishes, and get fortunes, which make for great gifts for family and friends. Rating: Must see.
Shibuya Yokocho — Walk 25 minutes again to the area of Shibuya, which borders Shinjuku. Shibuya is another populated epicenter in Tokyo. If you’re in Shibuya, you should eat at Yokocho for lunch (search Shibuya Yokocho). You’ll find a collection of indoor stalls that serve a variety of dishes. I ordered Chicken Katsu at one place, then hopped to another for seafood yakitori. Lunch time was fairly dead, but I imagine it gets lively in the evenings, particularly on the weekends. Rating: Must see but go during a busy evening.
Shibuya Crossing — Dubbed the “Times Square of Tokyo”, this cross-section of streets is a sightseeing destination. I personally didn’t get it and found it to be underwhelming, especially if you’ve actually seen Times Square in NYC. Most people will insist you see this though. I did later learn that there are two better ways to view it. One is to go at night and to experience the lights and spectacle of the big billboards. The other is to go to the Starbucks that overlooks the crossing to witness the “Shibuya Scramble” from above. Maybe that would be worth a shot, but from my angle during lunch time on a weekday, it wasn’t worth it. Rating: can skip it.
Harajuku — A 20 minute walk from Shibuya Crossing, this shopping area appeals to those looking for designer clothes. Personally, it wasn’t for me but it was something to see. Rating: I’d skip it, but I also hate shopping.
Ota Memorial Museum of Art — This two room art museum is in Harajuku and is worth a stop in if you are already closeby. I personally wanted to see at least one art museum while in Japan to have that experience. This museum fulfilled that. It showed a traditional Japanese art style and was a manageable and cheap tour. It only took about 45 minutes to slowly observe each of the paintings and it cost about $6 to enter. It had English descriptions of the paintings as well, which made it more interesting. Rating: do it if you are closeby.
Sensoji Shrine — At this point, I had a food tour lined up in Ueno (about 30 minutes subway from Shinjuku), and the Sensoji Shrine was a close walk away from the tour. I stopped by Sensoji and toured the grounds, and even pulled a fortune–unfortunately I pulled a bad fortune and had to hang it up on a clothesline to “shed it”. This was a much more interesting and visually appealing shrine than the Meiji one. It had a stark red color, and featured a multi-story tower as part of the grounds. I thought this was the coolest shrine in Tokyo. The market outside the shrine is also good for buying gifts. Rating: must see.
Airbnb Food and Drink Tour — I met Akira, my Airbnb tour host, by the Ueno train station, along with the other four people in the group. This was my first Airbnb Experience and I didn’t know what to expect, but the 2,000+ reviews with a 4.95 star rating made me feel comfortable. We kicked off the tour with Akira pulling out a bottle of Sake and pouring us all shots in the street. Apparently there are no open container laws in Japan, as he made sure to emphasize. The shots livened the mood, as our host broke the ice with a dose of energy and jokes flying left and right. The tour’s outline was to hit four spots in Ueno and eat and drink ourselves full, guided by a local. Unlike Shinjuku and Shibuya, Ueno is a locals spot that isn’t overly frequented by tourists like myself. What we quickly discovered is that Ueno has its own local version of the Golden Gai and Omoide Yakocho, except it’s much bigger — or at least it seems so after four sakes. In a similar feel, there are endless narrow alleys of specialty counters serving up the most delicious varieties of Japanese staples you’ve never heard of. It’s definitely a booze town too, with many people out on a Wednesday night. We first stop at a sashimi restaurant where our host arranges for raw fish platters for everyone, amongst other small bites. It’s a fish heavy meal with some exotic eats like shark fin. We then move onto a pork yakitori shop for “mystery pork” as Akira calls it. The real mystery ends up being how they manage to make intestine, forehead, tongue and esophagus taste so good. The sake continued to flow. We stop over at a small bar for a whiskey highball (very popular drink in Japan), then finish our tour at an underground ramen shop. This ramen shop somehow manages to have an even richer and more delicious broth than the first one. We said our goodbyes and off we went satisfied, full and ready for bed. The food and drinking pieces continue to be my favorite part of Japan, and this tour, host and location was top notch for experiencing an adventurous food tour of a hidden local spot in Tokyo. Link to tour. Rating: must do, specifically this one.
Day 3 — More Tokyo
Tsukiji Fish Market — Tsukiji is the famous historical site of the largest fish market in the world. It used to be the place where fishermen would sell their catch off the boat and billions of dollars worth of fish would pass through its halls. The actual fish market has moved to a newer location these days and isn’t open to the public. However, the remnants of Tsukiji remain in the “outer market”. What exists now are rows of food shops selling everything from wasabi sesame seeds, to sweet egg tamagoyaki, to authentic Japanese chef knives — and plenty of fresh fish and grilled meats. This food market has everything. It’s a great time to walk around with cash and sample as many different foods as you can before you fill up. Be sure to bring cash. Small vendors might only accept it. Try fresh Uni out of the shell, then grab A5 Wagyu (highest grade) grilled right in front of you. I ended up doing an Airbnb Experience tour of the area, which I would recommend. The tour guides give you inside knowledge of which foods to try and the history of the market. For $25, it’s worth the added experience and the insider knowledge. My host and group were fine, but you can’t go wrong using any of the tour guides listed. Rating: must do.
Imperial Palace — I had some time to kill before a museum tour, so I took the bus to the Imperial Palace, which is relatively close to Tsukiji. It was a long walk to get to the palace and the palace itself was mostly closed when I arrived during the middle of the day. While some parts were nice and you can tour the gardens, I didn’t think this was a worthwhile experience. There wasn’t much to see for me outside of the moat around the palace itself. Rating: skip it.
Team Labs Museum — Team Labs is an interactive art exhibit close to the Tsukiji market. You have to make a reservation to visit as spots fill quickly. It’s a unique experience where you walk through a museum barefoot and wander through some of the most interesting and alternative art exhibits in the world. While walking barefoot sounds unappealing, the staff keeps it clean and I didn’t feel dirty once. The reason for taking off your shoes is because you will end up walking through water several times in the exhibit, including one football field sized room which has water up to your shins. The room is dark except for holographic koi fish which “swim” in the water next to you. When you collide with the fish, they explode into flowers. Another highlight was the mirrored lights room, which featured all mirrors and thousands of dangling neon lights. The colors of the lights changed based on what settings people selected, which made for a unique light show. The tour took about 90 minutes to complete and was definitely worth the $25 ticket. Rating: must do.
Fufu Tako — Nestled on the second floor of a three story walkup just outside of the main strip in Shinjuku, Fufu Tako is a Takoyaki joint. Takoyaki are fried flour balls that are crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. They are usually stuffed with Octopus and other various Japanese staple ingredients, however they can come in different varieties. Fufu Tako is a no frills six seat secret that you have to actively seek out. Walk up the stairs and enter the door on the left to find one man behind a counter with a TV playing a Japanese version of “Top Gear”. Behind the counter, the proprietor has his black half circle metal pans where the delicious hot balls are made fresh to order. The special for the night was Japanese oyster and Octopus tentacle Takoyaki and the handwritten menu explained the variety of ways to top the balls. I went with the Traditional Method, which suggested teppanyaki sauce (similar to Worcester), mayo, dried bonito flakes and dried seaweed. The owner’s favorite was mayo with black Japanese pepper (the menu noted the pepper was fresh picked from the owner’s garden). Grab a beer and peruse the variety of reptile infused liquors on display while the room fills with the sweet fried smell of seafood and flour. The total cost comes to $6 for six meaty Takoyaki balls, enough to fill a belly. Rating: must do.
Tsurutontan–I’ve now been in Japan for a few days and I still haven’t had Udon noodles–the thick, chewy soup noodles that I’ve actually dreamt about on several occasions. Coming off six takoyaki balls, I’m planning a “bang bang” — a back to back restaurant meal at two different establishments. I scoped out Tsurutontan in Shinjuku, as it was highly rated and a short walk away from Fufu Tako. It took about ten minutes to walk there then another ten minutes to actually find the entrance. I’ll save you the trouble, there are no english markings on the storefront, but there is a flight of stairs that go below street level, and that is where the restaurant is. Once I truly arrived, I find it’s a trendy upscale basement, with literally no Americans in sight. It feels like something you’d find underground in Manhattan, a spot that doesn’t advertise to, nor does it want, tourists to attend– which means it’s almost guaranteed to have better food. I wait ten minutes on the list, then get seated at the bar in an oversized plush maroon chair in front of a dark red wood bar. It’s dimly lit with lo-fi Japanese rap playing through the speakers, creating a buzz throughout the restaurant. It’s clearly a local go-to, with couples on dates and young professionals in suits dining after a long day. The food arrives eventually, but not before the takoyaki expands in my stomach. An oversized black bowl of mixed meat curry udon is put in front of me and I dive in. The noodles were as thick and chewy as my dreams. They’re perfect receptacles for holding the curry sauce. It’s a great meal, but I can only finish half. It’s an enormous portion that I’d have a hard time finishing even if I were hungry. The dish and a beer costs me $20. I leave full, tired and ready for bed. Rating: must do.
Day 4 — Trip to Kyoto
Hanazono Shrine–I rise early to prepare for a bullet train to Kyoto. On my walk to the subway, I noticed the petite Hanazono Shrine and make a quick stop. The stark red colors on the bright blue day drew me in. It’s small, quaint and peaceful. It’s not much more than a ten minute stop, before I head on my way to Tokyo Station. Rating: see it if you’re closeby.
Trip to Kyoto–At the top of the article, I covered Tokyo Station, so I won’t touch on that again. I will say that you should grab a snack for the ride. I got one of those aesthetically pleasing crustless triangle sandwiches that have whipped cream and perfectly cut fruit shapes in the middle. It’s a fun snack for the ride. The ride is as impressive as people say — there are no bumps, it feels incredibly fast, and the path through the villages and mountains is beautiful. It’s a relatively quick trip (a little over two hours) to go nearly 300 miles of land distance.
Kyoto First Impressions– As I make my way to my Airbnb in the northeast section of the city, it quickly becomes clear to me how different Tokyo and Kyoto are. Tokyo is to New York City, what Kyoto is to Washington DC, except Kyoto feels even smaller, more historic, and more naturally beautiful than DC. Best of all, it doesn’t seem to have politicians. The city is nestled in a giant valley, with lush green mountains surrounding all edges. There are only a few tall buildings and the city is sprawling. As you walk through the city, it feels more like a giant village. It’s quiet, peaceful, gentle and there is a specific air of spirituality. That’s probably due to the fact that there are — what feels like — thousands of shrines throughout this city. It seems like you can throw a rock and hit a thousand year old shrine that has some deep cultural meaning. I quickly understood that this was a place of gravity, kind of like being in Rome and seeing the Pantheon, Colosseum and Roman Ruins, except everything is intact here. Unlike Tokyo, this city has a zen-like quality, reinforced by the gentlest streams you’ve ever seen trickling throughout the city. Wood paneled row houses and shops with tight alleys are everywhere. Everything is clean and pleasant. People sweep their streets with handmade brooms and walk around in kimonos. Some of this is leaning into the tourist appeal of it being a culturally historic landmark, but it’s still peaceful. Despite the relatively small feeling compared to Tokyo, it feels overwhelming in the sense that there is so much to see and it’s hard to know what to choose. Fortunately, I have a list of must sees on my list.
Heian Shrine– Close to my Airbnb is the Heian Shrine, a large red accented set of buildings, which was a commemoration to 1,100 years of Kyoto’s existence in 1895. This shrine reminds me of the shrines in Tokyo, featuring a large open courtyard and red accents. It’s a good start but not necessarily a must see. Rating: could skip it.
Nanzenji Shrine– I next walk to the Nanzenji Shrine, which is a brown and white paneled wood building nestled right up at the base of the Eastern mountain range. It feels like you step into the forest here, with the shrine covered by large trees next to trails that lead up to the mountain. There are several other shrines in the area, and you also get access to the famous Philosopher’s Trail nearby. Rating: nice to see.
Yasaka Shrine and Gion– The Yasaka Shrine is located at the entrance of the Gion district, a historical Geisha district. Geisha, or “art persons”, are the women that wear the white painted faces and elaborate dresses, which Western media often shows when picturing Japan. The area is interesting, but there wasn’t much to it. It’s still an important area to visit and the Shrine is one of the more important, and recommended, ones. Rating: nice to see.
Kiyamachi Dori– On the other side of the river is my favorite part of Kyoto. This set of streets runs along the main river in the city. The river itself is, again, incredibly quaint despite being quite large. It’s not more than two feet deep and you can see right through to the stone pebbled bottom where three foot carp-like fish slowly swim along. You can peer down from the bridge, or you can sit beside the river in the evenings. It’s a popular social activity to hang out along the banks with friends. The Kiyamachi Dori section is a dining and drinking epicenter for Kyoto. Similar to Tokyo, it has endless streets of small restaurants and drinking establishments with all sorts of smells and sounds pouring onto the street. Some of the places have decks that rise over the river though, making for nice views and breezy meals. Rating: must do.
Charcoal Fire Izakaya Julia–I’m set on finding a fine dining place, as I haven’t had that experience yet. I find Charcoal Fire Izakaya Julia, which has a perfect five star rating on Google Reviews after nearly 150 reviews. It’s a four dollar sign though so I know what I’m getting into. This place was a hidden gem. Located in the quieter and less frequented southern section of Kiyamachi Dori, it gets less looks than other establishments, however it offered a unique experience. This place specializes in Wagyu and has a pre-fixed menu. I ate Wagyu carpaccio, shiitake mushrooms, charcoal grilled Wagyu, and a raw egg rice dish. Raw eggs are ok to eat in Japan. It’s very common because the standards for egg production are much higher than the US. The full meal and two drinks cost me about $50. The place was classy and the owner was charming — she even gave me a list of sites to see for my trip. I highly recommend this place for some great Wagyu and fine dining from a nice owner. Again, I leave full and ready for bed. Rating: must do.
Side Note on Sushi–You might be surprised to learn, like I was, that sushi (at least the hand rolled circle variant) is not the main dish of Japan. In fact, I haven’t had one classic sushi roll five days into the trip. I’m not upset about it either. I’m actually delighted. I quickly learned Japanese cuisine is much broader and much more delicious than sushi rolls. I’ve seen a million shops for ramen or yakitori or takoyaki or soba or udon or wagyu, and I’d take all of those over American-style circle sushi.
Day 5 — Touring Kyoto
Kodaiji– I wake up early on a Saturday morning for my full day in Kyoto. I have my list of attractions to see, which will literally take me to the furthest corners of Kyoto and back again. I start by walking to Kodaiji, on the recommendation from the restaurant owner the night before. Unfortunately it’s closed at 7 am, but I can see the three story tall stone Buddha statue from the outside gates. This would be cool to see when it’s open but I move on. Rating: can’t say.
Walking Kyoto– My favorite moment in Kyoto was walking the empty, serene, gold-lit streets with just my walking shoes and backpack on a Spring Saturday morning. Kyoto in the early morning is magical. There are few tourists and golden hues peek out above the mountains. It’s fun to just walk up and down the city hills, discovering one shrine after another. It feels like a secret. Early morning hiking through the alleys of Kyoto discovering temples around each corner satisfies any wanderlust feeling I had before. It feels like pure adventure.
Ninenzaka– I stumbled into Ninenzaka on my way to another attraction. This one is not on my list but it’s right on my path and stands out from blocks away. It’s literally a five story pagoda (stacked Japanese tower) that sits on top of a neighborhood hill. It’s beautiful, simple, and accessible. I’m grateful to stumble into it and it becomes one of my favorite shrines. It’s close to Kodaiji, so you can easily see both. Rating: must do.
Kiyomizu-dera– My next stop is one of the main attractions recommended to me by locals and friends alike. Kiyomizu-dera is built into the side of the Eastern mountain range. You walk up flights of steps to get to the regal looking tower. Behind the tower is a trail that leads into the forest, and lines the inner edge of the mountain. From that trail, you get a perfect view of the shrine in the foreground with the city and Western mountain range in the background. It’s beautiful and a great photo opportunity. Rating: must do.
Fushimi Inari– I next navigate to Fushimi Inari, which is in the south eastern section of Kyoto. I decided to take a LUUP bike (electric bike share) to get there. It’s cheap to do but I wouldn’t recommend it. The directions are hard to navigate and the shoulders are dangerously narrow on most roads. Fortunately, I arrived. Fushimi Inari is the most unique and adventurous shrine in my experience. It has the iconic orange Torii gates that you have likely seen featured in a Nat Geo magazine. There are literally tens of thousands of these 10 foot high orange gates lined around a maze of paths that guide you up a mountain. Push past the initial crowd taking pictures in front of the gates (there are plenty of photo opportunities later) and you discover that it’s literally an orange gated hiking trail up to the top of the mountain. The round trip time would take over two hours, and the entirety of the trail is lined with these bright orange gates. I’m set on doing the hike– it seems like a great view at the top. I stop for tea halfway up the mountain to prepare for the long round trip. We’re in a dense forest at this point, shaded from the late morning sun. I’m excited to do something physically challenging in such a beautiful and unique environment. I set off from the tea house and start hiking up. Unfortunately, I get to a fork in the road, and I make the wrong turn (left). I gradually descend back down the mountain and out of the shrine grounds. By the time I realize it, I decide it’s too late to go back and try again. Next time I’d budget for multiple hours and would check my directions more frequently. Fortunately for me, there are dozens of street vendors selling all sorts of delectable snacks outside the shrine, and I haven’t ate yet. I pick Japanese-style fried chicken, a wrapped sweet ball of rice, and a sugary rice cracker. All three are delicious and cost less than $8 total. Rating: must do.
Arashiyama Monkey Park and Bamboo Forest– I take the subway from Fushimi Inari to the Arashiyama area. My next stop is to visit the monkey park there. Arashiyama is literally in the other corner of the city, so it takes about an hour to get there by subway and walking. This part of the city is also nestled up against the mountains and central river. I make my way through more food vendors to get to the base of the monkey park. If you’re wondering what a monkey park is, it’s basically an area on a mountain, where monkeys have a sanctuary. You can visit and see the monkeys up close. It’s an experience I’ve never had before, as the only monkeys I’ve seen have been in a pen in a zoo. As you enter the park, you start hiking up a wooded winding trail. This is a serious hike. It takes about 25 minutes to hike up a mountain. I was not kidding when I said bring good walking shoes. Once you arrive at the top, there are dozens of monkeys wandering about. They walk right past you, they carry their babies, they fight over food, and you’re mere feet away the whole time. You also get a sweeping 180 degree view of the city from a different angle. If you pay $1, you can feed the monkeys peanuts through a special screen — they grab them out of your hand, crack them and discard the shell. It’s a great experience. Afterwards, you can pop over to the bamboo forest to walk through thick stalks of bamboo. It’s not as exciting, but it is right there. Rating: must do.
Kinkaku-ji Shrine– The last stop on my Kyoto shrine tour is Kinkaku-ji, the golden temple. It’s described to me as the crown jewel temple, and I can see why. It feels like this and Fushimi Inari are the most popular shrine destinations I’ve been to. I take the bus from Arashiyama to Kinkaku-ji. As I enter the massive grounds, we walk along a guided path. Eventually we hit a pond, and behind that pond but before the mountain’s peak, sits literally a gold colored temple. It’s a sight to see and you can get a million great shots of it. The whole trail is a nice easy hike. Rating: must do.
Okonomiyaki– I finish my trip with a last meal in Kiyamachi Dori. This time I want some low-key local food in an intimate setting. I want to eat Okonomiyaki — the savory Japanese dinner pancakes, which are a staple in this region. It’s surprisingly hard to find a place that will let me in. It’s a Saturday night and many of the best rated places (all simple holes in the wall) are booked up, or at least they say so. I finally find a place that will let me in. It’s a filling and tasty meal, but it would have been better with a group. This is a decidedly social type of meal — one best enjoyed with pints of beer and friends. Rating: must eat.
Day 6 — Leaving Japan
Midori– I wake up in Kyoto, but have a 9 pm flight back to the US out of Tokyo. If I had a few extra days, the next big destination would have been Osaka. Osaka is the third biggest city, and is the kitchen of Japan. It’s also a 45 minute ride from Kyoto. Unfortunately, I don’t have the time and I leave early in the morning to get back to Tokyo on the bullet train. I’ve yet to have a true sashimi meal on my trip so I want to do an omakase before I head to the airport. A friend who has spent a lot of time in Japan recommended Midori. Midori has several locations but as my friend describes it, it’s the best value of sashimi you can get in Tokyo. This doesn’t mean it’s cheap quality, it’s quite the opposite. However, omakase in Tokyo is expensive and the world renowned places are incredibly hard to get a seat at, plus they’ll cost you $300 per person. Midori, however, is very high quality, and a fraction of the price. This everyman’s omakase doesn’t mean it’s easy to access though. I showed up, put my name on the waiting list, and I was 70th in line for getting a seat. I had nothing else to do so I sat on the bench outside with my bags and everyone else. It ended up taking about 1.5 hours to sit down inside. It was worth the wait though. I sat at the sushi chef counter and did the omakase pre-fixe meal (they bring you out 16 pieces of sashimi, plus miso soup, tea and some pudding like food), plus I supplemented with a few special sashimi rolls and a beer. The total cost was $39. It was also the best sushi/sashimi meal I’ve ever had in my life. It truly was the best value sushi in the world and the kind of place where you can eat and drink like a king with a bill that feels unbelievably cheap. If you’re doing omakase, be prepared to eat adventurously. As you can see, some of the pieces were like nothing I’ve seen in the States. Rating: must do.
Airport Departure– I went to the airport early, and bought gifts duty free for my family. I also finally got a bowl of soba noodles and tempura, which was delicious, especially for airport food. I used my extra yen to stock up on unique Japanese snacks from 7/11 and a couple of $10 shirts from UNIQLO.
Parting Thoughts
Japan is a food lover’s paradise. There are endless restaurants — most with less than 10 seats. They cook right in front of you. They specialize in one thing. It’s incredibly cheap, but very high quality.
In a lot of ways, it reminded me of Italy. It was scenic, surrounded by water, with cities thousands of years old, a population prideful of their culture, with fresh, cheap and healthy food. It’s also a country where you can wander and have a great time. My guide is a good starting point, but half of these things above were formed from wandering and discovering on the fly. I suggest having some key things to hit, but filling in the time with spontaneity. There are endless little adventures to be had. As Anthony Bourdain said about winging it:
“I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one. Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary”
I hope you have some happy accidents and enjoy Japan to the fullest. Please comment if you end up doing any of the above things — I’d love to hear how it went.
